Flaming is an Apt Description

September 3 - Flaming Gorge Scenic Drive #75-2023

BYWAYSSNAPSHOTS

AL

9/23/2023

Waking up for sunrise was worth it. I was awestruck by the way the sky and clouds were ablaze with the most instense color, and in all directions. I can’t think of a better way to have a cup of coffee and a little breakfast before heading out for the day. Our plans were to drive around the south end of Flaming Gorge Reservoir to see the rock formations and the reservoir from the many overlooks along scenic Highways 191 and 44. Clouds persisted most of the day, but with scenery like this, I don’t think it dampened the mood any.

Through a series of tight twists and turns, the road climbed in front of us before making a quick decent back down to the lake where the Flaming Gorge Dam reins in the waters of the Green River. The dam itself is situated in a very narrow section of the canyon: it is 502 feet high and almost a quarter of a mile long. The reservoir behind it extends 91 miles upstream into Wyoming providing many scenic vistas and recreational opportunities.

We continued on Highway 191, driving over the top of the dam, and ascending the plateau on the other side. There were a few overlooks along the climb where you could see a broader view of the area. We turned off the main road and headed for the Swett Ranch.

Oscar and Emma Swett were part of the last group of homesteaders, with their homestead being established in 1909. They built 3 homes here, starting with a one room cabin, then a two bedroom cabin, and finally a five room house as their family grew to include 9 children. Walking around the buildings and equipment that are being preserved by the U.S. Forest Service, I can see and imagine the hard work that Oscar and Emma did to clear the land and establish the ranch in this rugged and isolated area. Oscar worked this ranch up until his last day, dying in 1968, and Emma stayed until 1970. They were the last of the original settlers to reside in this area. I especially enjoyed the sawmill, the old equipment, and the log building.

We turned off the highway too soon, passing through a campground before correcting our track to go down Red Canyon Road. There are several overlooks down this road, including Canyon Rim Overlook, which is in a campground, and Edge of the Rim View Point at the Red Canyon Visitor Center. Both locations have a series of overlooks that give you distinct views of the meandering canyon and reservoir below. I was drawn in by the red rocks of the canyon walls, with the dark water below, and partly cloudy skies above. The views were ever-changing as the sun peaked out to highlight different areas of the canyon. Seeing these amazing canyons that were carved by the power of water gives me a sense of strength. The walls that remain continue to change with time, but these changes only make it better, revealing the inner beauty that was there all the while. I could have spent hours peering over the edge and watching the boats creating wakes in the seemingly calm water.

A little further down the road we came to the Sheep Creek Overlook. This spot gives a fantastic view of the red cliffs arching over the water below. The farthest cliff was directly across from where we were camping. We could not see the red rocks from our vantage point over there, but from here, they provide the evidence of how this place got its name. There was a fellow traveler here at the same time we were and Tom had a nice talk with him about his camera and setup while I wandered around taking photos.

Our final stop today was the Ute Fire Tower upon the recommendation of the volunteer at the Red Canyon Visitor Center. It is not very tall, by fire tower standards, but once we climbed the two flights of stairs to the top, we could see that it provided a vast view of the surrounding landscape. We learned that when it was in use, two Forest Service employees would have to live in this small tower for the summer, scouting the terrain for wildfires. They had to be especially diligent watching for lightning strikes during thunderstorms. They had to perch themselves on the chairs, which had glass elecrical insulators as feet to protect them from lightning strikes. After meeting several of the volunteers at sites like these, I had been thinking that might be something I would like to do in the future, but while we were there, a large group of people with unruly kids came up the stairs, and the shrieking, yelling and general turmoil cured me of that desire, at least for now.

We also drove through Sheep Creek Canyon, but I think I will save that for its own post.

Yesterday was a travel day, a very windy travel day at that. Thankfully we were only moving about 78 miles, because Tom had to fight the gusting winds the whole way, keeping the RV out of the canyon bottoms. The landscape along Interstate 70 in this area is stunning. There were three wayside pulloffs along this section so people can get out and enjoy it without impeding traffic. We might be getting dust and sand out of every crack and crevice, but Tom found a great site for us to stay for a few days while we explore this area.

Today has been a catch-up day. We got some much needed rest last night, walked around the camping area to see if we could find a better spot, and got files transferred to the new computer. As it’s getting colder at night, I am thankful for the sunshine, that warms us up inside each day. Wednesday night was rough, but Tom persisted with an amplified pep talk and the last couple days have been better. I realize the amplification happens when I repeatedly ignore, avoid, and remain silent. I feel unable to help him de-escalate and become calmer, and instead seem to add fuel to the fire. Things I could have done and still can do better is to focus on how to resolve things instead of feeling lost and defeated.